I went to Luxor with my boyfriend earlier this month, the same time the Abbasseya clashes were at their height in Cairo. In Luxor we saw the main ancient sites—Hatshepsut’s Temple, Valley of the Kings, Valley of the Queens, the Colossi of Memnon, Karnak, Luxor Temple and Medinat Habu. Our favorite site was Medinat Habu, less often visited by the tourist gangs and peaceful in the late afternoon (although it was fun to watch three Asian guys who were traveling around, taking pictures of themselves doing martial arts in front of Hatshepsut’s Temple and jumping in the air with the Sayedi guardians). The West Bank, mostly farmland and small, modest tourist outposts, was beautiful and quiet, and we rode bikes around to the ancient sites. The few people we talked to in Luxor seemed to support Amr Moussa, the former Arab League chief who is running in the presidential election, but there were also a lot of campaign posters for Mohamed Morsy (although that doesn’t necessarily mean widespread support, but rather that the Muslim Brotherhood has more resources) and a few for former Brotherhood member Abdel Moneim Abouel Fotouh. We also took a hot-air balloon ride for a serious bargain (about $75), which was definitely the highlight of the trip. We were so happy about the trip that we decided to go back to Cairo early rather than walking the East Bank, where the city is. In Luxor we found fewer friendly people and more eagerness to take advantage of foreigners, which was depressing but not surprising, considering that we got a sense the tourism only affects most people indirectly, at best, and many are left to harassing people to convince them to take a ride in their horse carriage or taxi.